Overview

Furisode (Long-Sleeved Robe) with Peacocks and Aronias in Yûzen Dyeing and Embroidery on Purple Crepe (Chirimen) Ground

On a background of a textured crepe (J., kabe chirimen, woven with weft plied from elements of different twist and weight), aronias in full bloom, resting peacocks, and tangled chrysanthemums blooming around them are depicted in yûzen dyeing and fine embroidery. The strong colors of the chemical dyes indicate that the garment was produced in the Meiji period (1868-1912). At that time, famous Kyoto Japanese-style painters, such as Kishitake Do, Kôno Bairei (1844-1895), and Takeuchi Seihô (1864-1942）were called upon to create cartoon sketches for yûzen dyers with the purpose of liberating the art from the restrictions of traditional motifs. This furisode is a typical example of a design based on an artist's cartoon.


Furisode (Long-Sleeved Kimono) Undergarment with Itajime Dyeing on Plain-Weave Silk and Embroidery on Red Crepe Ground

This undergarment was worn beneath the furisode (long-sleeved kimono) with peacocks, chrysanthemums and aronias. The body panels were dyed with a complex design in itajime, a resist-dye technique involving folding the cloth and clamping it between carved boards before immersing it in dye. Extra red crepe embroidered with thin gold thread has been added to the portions visible on the sleeves and the hem. Set next to the strong, deep colors of the furisode, the barely visible bright red of the undergarment must have brought out the youthful charm of the wearer.